FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

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Q. What is your Hours of operation
A. We are a appointment based business. Best form of contact is via email.

 Q. What is your Address

 A. 660 US Route 24
unit # 32 (The VERY LAST ONE NORTH)
Topeka, Kansas 66608   

Q. Do you guys work on ------ ?

A. We are a Full Performance/Speed Shop. We not only can INSTALL parts. We are Vendors for LOTS of Performance Lines!! We are ASE Certified, along with other performance certifications. We have the knowledge and the experience to get you taken care of! 

Q. Why should I dyno tune my vehicle?

A. You've invested in your vehicle's 

performance. Finish the job right by making sure the engine reaches its full potential. No matter how good the tuner, you can't get live real-time feedback and customized adjustments with a mail order tune. Every car has subtle differences. When you want the best possible performance there is no substitute for an experienced tuner making adjustments specific to your individual car.

At LSXkilr Custom Calibrations we treat every vehicle with the care and dedication that we would want for our own vehicle. We have extensive knowledge of SCT tuning software, Holley EFI, high performance engine design theory and forced induction (supercharging, turbocharging, nitrous). We have the experience to give you the best tune possible. We go the extra mile to make sure your tune comes out right.

Q. What makes a LSXkilr Custom Calibrations tune better?

A. TIME and EXPERIENCE make a LSXkilr Custom Calibrations tune the best. We simply put more time into tuning each vehicle than other tuners do, and We have more experience getting down to all the little details that make the engine run better. A LSXkilr Custom Calibrations tune is much more than a quick "tweak" of your car. We thoroughly go over your car and your computer's calibration and take the time to do the extra steps required for the best possible result.

-Full throttle, part throttle, idle, transient fuel (tip-in) and cold-start parameters are tuned

-A COMPLETE MAF Transfer calibration mapping, NOT just full throttle like some other tuners.

We graph out each point and make CALCULATED changes to the MAF Transfer, unlike other tuners who simply GUESS where to make changes

-My Wideband Air/Fuel sensor is calibrated before each tune, unlike some tuners who just throw it in your car un-calibrated or hasn't been calibrated in who knows how long.

-Tuned until the car is right, with no pre-set time limit or "rush-jobs"

Q. How long does it take to tune a car on the dyno? How many passes do you make?

A. The short answer is "As long as it takes."

Regardless of the combination, We tune the car until it is right. There is no pre-set limit on how many pulls I will do. Some cars are very simple to dial in, with straightforward combinations of parts, MAF sensors that are calibrated perfectly, fuel systems that are working right, etc. Those cars are done in about three hours with as little as three or four full-throttle pulls and a few "miles" of part throttle tuning on the dyno. Other cars have more complicated setups ( MAF transfer functions and transient fuel tables that need a lot of work, injectors or meters that are past capacity, fuel pressure that needs to be adjusted, supercharger belts that are slipping, spark plugs that need to be re-gaped, etc). If you are waiting with the car while we tune it, be prepared to wait for at least 3+ hours. The best thing to do is to arrange to drop the car off for the day. we take the time and will give you the best results possible if we are not rushed. Typically, we spend an hour or more looking over your car and writing a fully customized tune before we even make the first dyno pull.

Q. How much power will my vehicle gain?
A. We do TRUE custom tuning, so every vehicle is different. We don't quote Dyno numbers, because of that fact. You get a dyno sheet all said and done.
Those Online companies, mail-order tuners are selling "One Size Fits All" Tunes. -The same tune they would send you, would be the same tune they send someone in Florida or Alaska. 

Q. How much MPG will I gain/get?
A. The Honest answer to this is- we just simply do not have customers calling us back months later with those results. In a few hrs tuning session we can not measure those gains. The dyno shows us HP/TQ gains. 

Q. How does the "Deposit" work to get on the schedule?

A. We take a $100 Non-refundable Deposit to secure your Tuning appointment. It's a way to keep our schedule cleaned-up for those who are TRULY VESTED into their vehicle's tune! 

Q. Can I stand in the Dyno area?
A. Unfortunately, No. Do to many SAFETY reasons. We can NOT have customers in/around the Dyno area. Remember that the dyno is like a treadmill for a vehicle. So that vehicle is under STRAIN and is actually moving at a high rate of speed! So if something were to happen it could cause HARM to those around the vehicle! We want you to be at a SAFE distance at ALL times to make sure YOU & your vehicle are properly taken care of!


Q. What is a "Loaded Dyno" vs a "Inertia Dyno"?
A. A "loaded dyno" uses force to "Load" the vehicle as it is accelerating. This way it can simulate REAL WORLD conditions. A "Inertia Only Dyno" is just a free weighted roller. (Think like the wheels on a roller skate.) The roller has weight to it and the vehicle accelerates the roller.


Q. I made xxx Power on another dyno and Less on your dyno?
A. If it was our:
-Loaded dyno. A Loaded Dyno generally reads 15% less then that of a Inertia Dyno. We can take a vehicle and dyno it on our Mobile Dyno (Inertia only) then dyno it on the loaded dyno (in the shop), and it will be 15% less!
-If it was on the Mobile dyno. Our mobile dyno has 3600lbs of inertia force to it. Which is "close" to most vehicles weight. As we have traveled with our dyno (and dyno'd COUNTLESS cars), we have found that a big reason people make LESS on it than they did somewhere else is- The dyno they were tuned on has a LOW inertia to it, so their tuner was able to be really aggressive on the dyno and give them "HERO NUMBERS".


Q. I am not sure if my car is ready for a tune? Or I need you guys to look it over for me?
A. If you have any of the following then we recommend that you perform the minimum Basic Pre-Dyno Inspection service…

35,000+ miles Check Engine Light (temporary or permanent)

-Any Minor or Major Induction or Exhaust changes performed prior to tuning

-Any Minor or Major Fuel changes

If you have any of the following criteria we would highly recommend that you perform the Advanced Pre-Dyno Inspection.

75,000+ Miles

-Vehicle older than 2013

-Check Engine Light (temporary or permanent)

-Any Minor or Major Induction or Exhaust changes performed prior to tuning

-Any Minor or Major Fuel changes

-Track or Avid Aggressive Driver

-Vehicles for racing (seasonal vehicles for abuse)

Basic Pre-Dyno Inspection = $250.00 

-Inspect Vehicle for Fluid Leaks

-Vacuum System Inspection

-Boost Source/Nitrous Inspection

-Fuel System Inspection

-Cooling System Inspection

-Exhaust System Inspection

-Misc. Zip Tie and Clamp Application Inspection

Advanced Pre-Dyno Inspection = **cost varies for each vehicle, call for your specific vehicle**

-Removal; inspection and replacement of spark plugs

-Check Distributor (w/ vehicles that have distributors) 

-Compression Test

-Fuel Pressure Test

-Fuel Injector Flow Test & Cleaning

-Boost Leak Test

-Vacuum System Inspection

-Boost Source/Nitrous Inspection

-Fuel System Inspection

-Cooling System Inspection

-Inspect Vehicle for Fluid Leaks

-Exhaust System Inspection

-Misc. Zip Tie and Clamp Application Inspection

Q. What if I am unsure the condition of my O2 sensors?

A. Modern vehicles REQUIRE properly working FRONT o2 sensors for the vehicles fueling to function properly. -This is the NUMBER 1 Cause of drivability concerns. We also can NOT tune your vehicle properly if you do not have properly working front o2 sensors. I.e. this may lead you to have to have another appointment or have to pay for o2 sensors & labor for us to install them at the time of your appointment! 

Q. What Injectors do I need?/ Do I have enough Injector?

A. The formula for calculating the correct size fuel injector for your Mustang is calculated by:
Injector Flow Rate (lb/hr) = (Engine HP) x (BSFC) / (Number of Injectors) x (Injector Duty Cycle)

If you are trying to compare injector flow rates and you have flow data at one delta pressure, you can easily calculate the flow rate at a different delta pressure as follows:
Flow rate at new delta pressure = (flow rate at old pressure) x v(new pressure/old pressure)

Engines require a certain fuel flow rate that is generally measured in lb/hr (pounds per hour) and can be calculated via knowledge of its Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC). BSFC represents how much fuel (in lb) is required per hour per each brake horsepower the engine produces. More clearly stated, this means that if you have a gasoline engine that makes 300 brake horsepower, its total maximum fuel requirement in lb/hr can be calculated as follows:
Fuel flow requirement = (brake horsepower) x (BSFC)

This calculation can also be reversed to give the maximum safe hp a set of injectors can support, which gives:
Max safe hp = [ (injector size) x (total # of injectors) x (max duty cycle) ]/BSFC

Example: The following guide is a general rule of thumb for sizing fuel injectors on an 8-cylinder engine using a BSFC of 0.50. Forced-induction engines typically range from a BSFC of 0.55 to 0.65, with the latter value arising from the fuel enrichment necessary to keep exhaust temperatures below 1650 deg F and catalyst temperatures below 1750 deg F.

Naturally Aspirated: (19 lb x 8 x .85)/.50 = 258.4 or approx 258 hp @ 85% duty cycle Forced-Induction @ 0.55: (19 lb x 8 x .85)/.55 = 234.9 or approx 235 hp @ 85% duty cycle Forced-Induction @ 0.65: (19 lb x 8 x .85)/.65 = 198.8 or approx 199 hp @ 85% duty cycle

Q. I want to drop off my vehicle after you close/or on a weekend?

A. We now have our Customer Info Sheets Available to download and fill out right at home. This way you can fill it out and have it dropped-off with you car at you convivence. Remember, we do need BOTH sheets filled-out before we can start work on your vehicle!